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Hardware How To

What to do when the USB-C ethernet adapter for your Mac doesn’t work out of the box

I recently got a Mokin 10-in-1 USB-C dongle for use with my work computer, a 2019 16″ MacBook Pro, whose only connectors are 4 Thunderbolt/USB-C ports and a 3.5 mm audio jack.

The dongle worked like a charm out of the box with the notable exception of one part: The Ethernet port. I had a pretty good guess why this was happening and how to fix it.

The problem and the plan

Most dongle vendors are integrators. They may manufacture the cases and simpler electronics, but they purchase lot (or all of) the fancier tech from manufacturers, such as networking chips.

Here’s a pic showing a Mokin dongle and its internals:

From Mokin’s site. Tap to view at full size.

My plan was to find the manufacturer of the networking chip inside my dongle, then find their webpage, then hopefully find a driver.

Here’s what I did.

Step 1: Identifying the vendor

With the dongle plugged into my MacBook, I opened the Apple menu and selected About This Mac. This window appeared:

I clicked the System Report… button, which opened the System Report window:

This window provides a run-down of the hardware, software, and networking on your Mac. Its Hardware list provides information about the hardware in and attached to the computer. A lot of peripherals have information such as vendor IDs encoded to them, and you can use System Report to find it.

I expanded the Hardware menu and selected the USB item. The USB Device Tree list appeared in the window’s right pane.

I then went through the USB 3.1 Bus entries in the USB Device Tree list in search of an entry containing the word LAN. Once I found that entry, I clicked on it, which then caused its details to appear in the lower part of the right pane.

I found the information that I needed: the Vendor ID, and better still, an actual vendor name: Realtek.

This shouldn’t have been a surprise: Realtek, a chip manufacturer in Taiwan, have had the majority share of the ethernet controller market since the early 2000s. They also have a good chunk of the sound chip market, so I’m no stranger to their drivers or their distinctive “crab” logo.

Step 2: Search for the vendor’s site, and in particular, the page containing the driver you need

Now that I had a vendor name, I did a search with using the search term realtek lan 10/100/1000 driver mac. This was my first result:

What if you don’t have a vendor name, but just a vendor ID number?

In the case where you just have a vendor ID number and no name, you should consult as USB ID database, such as the one at The SZ Development:

I decided to see if I could find the driver using this route.

I entered the vendor ID reported by my Mac, 0x0BDA, in the Vendor ID field and the reported product ID, 0x8153, in the Product ID field. I clicked Search and got these results:

  • USB 10/100/1000 LAN
  • RTL8153 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter

The links that the site provides aren’t all that useful. You’ll get much farther if you simply include the result text with the words driver and mac as your search term.

Doing that took me to the same page as the previous method:

Step 3: Install the driver

From the Realtek page I found, I downloaded the installer that applied to me and ran it. It worked without a problem.

(They would be well-served by a team that could do a half-decent job localizing the language on their installer.)

Step 4: Enable wired networking

With the driver installed, it’s time to make wired networking happen!

Open System Preferences. To add wired networking, you’ll need to add a new networking service, which you do by clicking the + button at the bottom of the menu on the left side of the window:
You’ll be asked to select the interface and provide a name for the new networking service. Select USB 10/100/1000 LAN from the Interface menu, and enter whatever you like for in the Service Name field. I entered “Wired” for mine:

I clicked the Create button, which created the service and dismissed the dialog box. The new service, named Wired, appeared in the menu on the left side, with Not Connected as its subtitle.

I clicked the Apply button…

…and the Wired service went from Not Connected to Connected:

Success!

Now it was time to test the connection. I shut off wifi and ran Speedtest.net on my wired connection. The results shown below are for my work computer, which uses a VPN that I need to always keep on (or there will be. consequences):

That’s a good deal faster than I get on wireless, and I’m sure I’ll get better speeds on my personal computer when it’s not on a VPN.

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How to downgrade to macOS Catalina after upgrading to Big Sur

I’ll admit it: I’ve gotten a little used to working at smaller companies, where there’s no monitoring of company computers, and it’s the Wild West as far as what you can install on them.

That’s no longer the case for me. I now work at Auth0, a company with a headcount that’s quickly approaching 800, with unicorn status and Series F funding, and it’s in the security industry. Naturally, there’s a full-fledged security team that monitors company-issued computers.

In my excitement to take the new version of macOS — Big Sur — out for a spin, I’d forgotten that the Security team hasn’t yet approved it for use. They very quickly (and I should add, nicely) contacted me and let me know that I needed to reinstall macOS Catalina as soon as possible.

There are other reasons why you might need to go back to Catalina after installing Big Sur:

For the benefit of any who need to downgrade, here’s a step-by-step guide to reinstalling Catalina after you’ve installed Big Sur. You’ll need a USB key and the better part of an afternoon.

Step 1: The preliminaries

1a: Start downloading the Catalina installer from the App store

The first thing you’ll need is the macOS Catalina installer.

Here’s the link to the Catalina installer on the App Store.

It’ll take up around 9 gigabytes of space on your hard drive, and the App Store will put in your Applications folder.

Once it’s completely downloaded from the App Store, the installer will start automatically. When this happens, close the installer. You’ll make use of it later.

The installer will take some time to download. Apple’s servers will be busier than usual, as many users are downloading Big Sur and other upgrades.

1b: Back up your files!

In the process of reinstalling Catalina, you’ll need to completely erase your Mac’s hard drive. If you have any files that you can’t live without, this is the time to back them up.

I didn’t have to worry about this, since:

  • All my work product is either code (which lives on GitHub) or content (which lives on GitHub or Google Docs), and
  • I’ve been at Auth0 less than a month, and between onboarding and offsites, there just hasn’t been that much of a chance for me to accumulate that many files on my hard drive!

1c: Get a nice fast USB key that stores at least 16 GB

The process will involve booting your Mac from a USB key containing the macOS Catalina installer, so you’ll need a key with enough space. An 8 GB USB key won’t be big enough. Because digital storage is all about powers of 2, the next size up will be 16 GB.

I strongly recommend that you use a USB 3 key, especially one with read speeds of 300 megabits/second or better, such as the Samsung Fit Plus. Doing so will greatly speed up the process. Don’t use a USB key that you got as conference swag — it may have the space, but more often than not, they tend to be slow, because they’re cheap.

If the USB key contains files that you want to keep, back them up. You’re going to erase the key in the next step.

Step 2: Make a bootable USB key containing the macOS Catalina installer

2a: Format the USB key

Plug the USB key into your Mac, then launch Disk Utility.

Select the USB key in Disk Utility’s left column, then click the Erase button:

Tap to view at full size.

You’ll be presented with this dialog box:

Enter MyVolume into the Name field, and for Format, select Mac OS Extended (Journaled). Click the Erase button. This will format the USB key with the volume name of MyVolume.

2b: Install the macOS Catalina installer onto the USB key

In Step 1a, you downloaded the macOS Catalina installer and closed it after it started automatically. In this step, you’ll transfer it to your freshly-formatted USB key.

Open a terminal window and paste the following command into it:

(The command above assumes that you gave the USB key the volume name MyVolume.)

Once you’ve provided sudo with your password, you’ll be asked if you want to erase the USB key. Entering Y in response will start the process of making the USB key a bootable drive and copying the macOS Catalina installer onto it:

Tap to view at full size.

The Erasing disk process will be relatively quick, but the Copying to disk process may take a while. This is where using a nice, fast USB 3 key will pay off.

Be patient and let it get to 100%, and wait for the Install media now available message to appear and the command line prompt to return.

2c: If your Mac is from 2018 or later, set it up to boot from external media

Check the year of your Mac’s manufacture by selecting About This Mac under the Apple menu:

  • If your Mac year is 2017 or earlier, you don’t need to follow the rest of this step. Proceed to Step 3.
  • If your Mac’s year is 2018 or later, you’ll need to change its security settings to allow it to boot from an external drive.

Here’s how you change the security settings:

  1. Restart your Mac and hold down the and R keys when you see the Apple logo. This puts the computer into recovery mode, which provides many setup options.
  2. In the menu bar, select Utilities, and then select Startup Security Utility from the list that appears.
  3. The Startup Security Utility window will appear:
    1. Under the Secure Boot section, select Medium Security. This will allow you to install Catalina without having to connect to a network.
    2. Under the External Boot section, select Allow booting from external media. This will allow you to install Catalina from a USB key or disk drive.
Tap to view at full size.

Step 3: Install macOS Catalina

Restart your Mac, and hold down the Option key while it restarts. Your Mac will present you with a choice of startup disks.

Choose the USB key. Your Mac will boot up and you’ll be presented with the macOS Catalina installer screen:

Go ahead and install Catalina.

Once Catalina is installed, you can proceed reinstalling your other software.

Once that’s complete:

  • If your Mac’s year is 2017 or earlier, you’re done installing Catalina. You can now go about reinstalling your software and  restoring your backed up files.
  • If your Mac’s year is 2018 or later, you’ll need to restore its original security settings. The process is described in Step 4, below.

Step 4: If your Mac is from 2018 or later, restore the original security settings

If your Mac is from 2018 or later, follow these steps to restore the original security settings once Catalina has been installed:

  1. Restart your Mac and hold down the and R keys when you see the Apple logo. This puts the computer into recovery mode, which provides many setup options.
  2. In the menu bar, select Utilities, and then select Startup Security Utility from the list that appears.
  3. The Startup Security Utility window will appear:
    1. Under the Secure Boot section, select Full Security.
    2. Under the External Boot section, select Disallow booting from external media.
Tap to view at full size.